Dressed for success

Published April 22, 2010
By Monica Mendoza
21st Space Wing Public Affairs staff writer

PETERSON AIR FORCE BASE, Colo. -- -- Col. Douglas Jackson, Air Force Space Command, has spent more than 20 years in a military uniform. This year, he will put on a new uniform - a suit.

It would serve him well to know the difference between a British or European cut, an American cut and an Italian cut jacket. He'll want to consider tie color, shirt color and pant length when he chooses a suit.

It takes just seven seconds for a person to form a positive or negative feeling toward a new person they meet, said Robert Brisbon, image consultant and owner of Brisbon Enterprises in Colorado Springs.

"And, 55 percent of the judgment is based on appearance," he said.

As military members prepare to retire or separate from service they need to think about their next uniform, what it will convey and how it will enhance their opportunities to land a job. Going into a job interview, they will want to dress for success, like they already belong there, Mr. Brisbon said.

"You won't have anyone standing in front of you giving you a (uniform) inspection," he said.

Mr. Brisbon has been a longtime consultant to the Transition Assistance Program on Peterson Air Force Base. TAP is a five-day workshop which prepares military members to transition into the civilian workforce. About 40 military members attended TAP in April and, during his two-hour presentation, Mr. Brisbon impresses on the future job-seekers the importance of dressing for success and how the choice of an ill-fitting suit could mean rejection for a position, even if they are well-qualified.

The "Dress for Success" presentation is one of the most valued segments of the TAP program and receives favorable reviews, said Sherri Kitchens, TAP manager.

"Dress for Success is a huge part of TAP," she said. "After the class, I have heard men say they had never thought about these things - buying a suit that fits or the color of a tie."

Prior to the presentation, about 40 percent of men say their wives choose their ties for them. Instead, the neck tie ought to be considered as part of the entire ensemble, Mr. Brisbon said. A prior military man himself, Mr. Brisbon understands the value of looking sharp in uniform. However, not many military men have had an opportunity to discuss classic business attire.

"When I retired there was no TAP," Mr. Brisbon said. "It was, 'Job well done, thank you for your service. Good luck to you.' "

Mr. Brisbon, who after retirement from the military was an image consultant for Dillard's Inc., has always had an eye for fashion dating back to his first experience as a boy when he was fitted for a new Easter Sunday suit. As the saying goes, "Gentlemen should select attire with intelligence, put it on with care and then wear it as though they have forgotten about it," said Mr. Brisbon, a retired Army sergeant major.

First, a person ought to be aware of their body type - are they broad in the shoulder, narrow at the hip; are their shoulders rounded; do they have a slightly protruding abdomen; or are they long and lean. Mr. Brisbon brought a dozen suit jackets, dozens of ties and a variety of shirts to TAP to show proper fit, color and putting together the entire outfit.

"When is the last time you looked in the mirror and gave yourself an appraisal," Mr. Brisbon asked the TAP group during his presentation April 15.

Apparel should not be distracting. That means, Mr. Brisbon said, it should fit well, and there should be no clashing patterns, and an outfit should not be offensive. For a job interview, both men and women should stick to navy, gray or black suits. If someone says, "Oh, I like your tie," that means the tie stands out too much. The compliment you are looking for is, "Wow, you look great today," he said.

The same goes for women, said Bunny Harrison, a professional shopper, who was at TAP to help the ladies choose their interview suits. She helped Master Sgt. Kim Wilson, 21st Medical Group, chose a black interview suit with a three-button jacket and a skirt, which hit below the knee.

"I recommend a skirt for the first interview, it's more formal," Ms. Harrison said.
Colonel Jackson, Air Force Space Command's chief, Space System Maintenance Division, who will retire this year, said there is much to think about when choosing a suit.

"A few years ago I attended something similar at war college, but trends change and it is always good to stay current," he said. "Today, I learned the importance of matching colors to your palette. What works for someone else might not work for me. That's something to be taken into consideration."

A job seeker has got to make smart decisions about what they wear to an interview, Mr. Brisbon said.

"You want people to say, 'wow' - according to Webster's that means they deem you a surprise success," he said." That will separate you from the competition."

When buying an interview suit, Mr. Brisbon recommends:

· Men, choose a two or three-button, single-breasted jacket. Four buttons is too trendy. For a broad shoulder, a classic American cut jacket with no shoulder padding works best. "Under no circumstances should a man wear a jacket that exposes his gluteus maximus," Mr. Brisbon said.

· Stick to a point collar white shirt for the interview. "It conveys sincerity," Mr. Brisbon said. In fitting your jacket, make sure the points of the collar line up with the jacket lapel. Make sure a half inch of the collar shows above the jacket and make sure the sleeve shows a half inch past the end of the jacket, but not past the root of the thumb. Someone with long neck should try a semi-spread collar.

· Trousers should be fitted with a half break, one quarter inch from the bottom of the shoe. "In full gait, it's absolutely crucial you don't show sock," Mr. Brisbon said. Cuffed pants add weight and ensure the pants drape nicely, however quality wool trousers will drape well, he said. Avoid cuffs if you have short legs.

· Wear a quality watch. And never wear black shoes with a navy suit. Instead wear Bordeaux colored shoes. "I recommend you purchase a quality pair of lace-up shoes," Mr. Brisbon said.

· "The tie is the most important accessory," Mr. Brisbon said. Choose a color that complements your skin, hair and eye color. Think about what you are trying to convey. For example, red might convey power, blue might convey conservatism. The width of the shovel end of the tie should not be wider than the widest part of the jacket lapel. The best knot for a point collar shirt is a half Windsor. For an interview, avoid the "Regis Feldman" look of wearing the tie and shirt the same solid color.

· Women should choose a suit with skirt instead of pants. However, if you choose pants, make sure they hang to the bottom of the shoe. Think of rule of thirds, either a long jacket with a short skirt, or a short jacket with a longer skirt. The buttons of the jacket should always be buttoned, even when you sit.

· Wear simple jewelry, and limit number of pieces to seven to include eyeglasses. "Anything more than that is flashy," Ms. Harrison said.

· Wear a quality watch, silver is recommended.

· Never wear open-toe shoes to an interview.

Dressing for success